As temperatures reach 40 celsius is southern parts of Spain, it’s time to cool off with a nice serving of Gazpacho. To some it’s cold soup. To others it’s a liquid salad. For many it’s the most refreshing summer drink. What is undeniable is that it is one of the Spanish tastes of summer.

In very hot Andalucia, this chilled soup is more popular than ever. I’ve rarely had two servings of gazpacho taste the same (unless, horror of horrors, it has come out of a packet). I’ve enjoyed some memorable home made gazpacho in the fine city of Granada. I prefer the more spicy, garlic laden versions. The quality of the tomatoes used is crucial to the final taste.

But historically it wasn’t always that way. In centuries gone by it was made only by pounding bread, water and garlic with that indispensable kitchen double act, the pestle and mortar. Today, what was once a dish for the poor, is now served in some of the finest and more expensives restaurants throughout Spain. Ripe tomatoes, cucumber, peppers, olive oil and sherry vinegar are widely used to make a good gazapcho.

How diluted it is can depend on just how hot it is outside. At the height of summer most chefs dilute it greatly. In many Andalucian homes it is kept and consumed as a drink. In winter months it is served much thicker and eaten with a spoon.

Make the 90 minute journey from the province of Granada to Malaga and you can sample cold white soup. Yes, you heard me right, white soup. Ajoblanco Malagueño, (sometimes seen on menus as gazpacho blanco), is made using freshly peeled almonds, garlic cloves, white bread soaked in milk, sherry vinegar and olive oil. Traditionally this dish, of which Malaga is very proud, is often served with fresh grapes.

My favourite cold serving is called Salmorejo and is made with stale bread (yes, you hear me right again), ripe tomatoes, chopped ham, cucumber, egg yolks and olive oil. It a thick mayonanaise like gazpacho that can also be used as a dip. I prefer to have it as a cold starter or refreshing mid afternoon soup. Córdoba is the home of salmorejo but you can also enjoy it in the likes of Granada and Seville.

I know that visitors to Spain find the whole idea of cold soup to be repulsive. That is until they have walked through a Spanish city in summer temperatures. Then all they want to do is sit in the shade and eat something cool. I have converted many friends to gazpacho.

Make a large amount and keep it chilled in the fridge for up to three days. Here’s a recipe for gazpacho.

Ingredients

2 slices of day old bread (50g)

2 tablespoons wine vinegar

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small cucumber (or half a large one) pelled and roughly chopped

1 green pepper, cored and deseeded, roughly chopped

Salt and a little sugar

Method

Put the bread to soak in a few tablespoons of ice cold spring water with the vinegar and garlic. Pound the mixture in a mortar or place everything in a liquidiser and process to a purée. Add the oil and remaining vegetables. Add ice cold spring water until you arrive at the consistency of choice. Thick or thin depending on if you will be serving as a soup or as a drink. Season with salt and a little sugar. Transfer to a jug and cover. Set in the fridge for 2-3 hours, or until well chilled. Do not use ice as it only dilutes the flavour.

Serve as a refreshment in a chilled glass or as a first course soup in a bowl. To make it more like a salmorejo, add chopped hard boiled egg, diced jamon serrano, cucumber and peppers.

Tagged as: cucumbers, egg, garlic, ham, olive oil, peppers, sherry vinegar, tomatoes