Each Thursday men of a certain age in my village rush out of their homes when they hear the shouted word of… Huevos! It’s funny how, when the bread man or fish van arrive, it is the woman of the village who come out to buy. And yet when the attractive egg delivery lady arrives, only men can be found looking at her rear. Of her vehicle that is! Eggs sell well in my village and the men are definitely happier on a Thursday. Do eggs taste nicer in Spain? You bet they do.

A full tray of large eggs will cost me 2.75 euros (no man is charged for looking at her rear). The eggs are ideal for making the deep, chunky tortillas that i like. For combining with spinach or mushrooms. Or simply for a great breakfast of egg with ham and/or chips.

Historically eggs were a luxury in impoverished parts of Spain. A near neighbour of mine, Maria Louisa, recalls how eggs were a luxury when she was growing up. She says: “If my father or grandfather came home with fresh eggs, me and my sisters knew our mother would be happy and that we would eat well for a week. Now when i see eggs delivered to people at their door, i cry a little at the memory of how tough it was when i was growing up. Today eggs are in every home and served with almost every other food.”

The eggs delivered to me are hatched locally and, in my neck of the woods at least, one only buys eggs at a supermarket in an emergency. The eggs produced by the noisy hens that live behind me are also delightful. The yokes in Spain are so much bigger and tastier than any egg i ever consumed in, for example, the UK.

In Spain you can have eggs in a tortilla with seafood, with sardines, with tuna, with snails, with spicy sausage, with fresh vegetables. With almost anything in fact.

But, in a forthcoming recipe, we’ll concentrate on the classic Spanish dish of scrambled eggs with mushrooms (revuelto de setas).

I grew up loving to eat ham. But it was nothing like the ham i eat in Spain. Jamón Serrano has to be one of the culinary success stories in the country. Many bars and shops in my part of Spain display the air cured legs of jamón by hanging them from the ceiling. Amazing to look at. Even nicer to taste.

The highest village in Spain, Trevélez, is one hour from my front door. This is considered to be the centre of jamón serrano production in Andalucia. And yet you will rarely see a pig there. These days the jamón that so dominates the shops of Trevélez is shipped in from elsewhere. It comes to Trevélez to dry out and mature. Tourists come to Trevélez, and the other distinctive villages of La Alpujarra, to taste the ham. Many buy a whole leg and take it home. Once upon a time I even took one on a plane!

The nicest jamón serrano I have tasted was in a bar in neighbouring Capileira. The bar owner, Jose, told me his mother produces it from her shop in the town of Lanjaron. A spa town famous for its drinking water and referred to as the “gateway to La Alpujarra.”

The province of Teruel also produces jamón serrano. The city of Teruel is the smallest provincial capital in Spain. Like Trevélez, this is a place that experiences very cold weather in the winter and that is ideal for the maturing of the haunches of jamón. As in La Alpujarra, the fresh cold air is crucial to producing tasty ham. That and the coarse grain sea salt that is used. You’ll see haunches of jamón serrano hanging (as photographed) for anything between one and two and a half years. That’s how long the maturing process can take.

The ham from Teruel is often darker in appearance than that produced in La Alpujarra, but each come from the white pig.

A recipe using jamón serrano is coming soon and later, in another blog entry, we’ll look at the ham produced from the black pig in Extremadura, Iberian Ham.

*thanks to Pat Firth for the photograph

There will never be a shortage of pork in Spain. It is the most popular meat and, in areas such as Andalucia, the most consumed. Pork is everywhere. Pigs in Spain come in many colours, shapes and sizes. But they all know their place. And, sooner or later, that place is on the dining table.

Pigs have been fattened up to eat across Spain since Roman times. Only when the Moors conquered Spain in the 8th century were pigs not on the menu. They were considered to be unclean by Muslim followers of the Koran. Centuries later when the reconquest took place, pork made a comeback and anyone refusing to eat it came under the watchful eye of the new Christian rulers of Spain. Jews and Muslims who were suspected of only pretending to convert to christianity were tested by being told to eat pork, and so prove their loyalty to the new King and Queen of Spain.

Today the pig is kept only to be eaten. Especially at the time of the Matanza. A ‘celebration’ of pork which should not be attended by the squeamish. Slaughtering pigs at home is now outlawed in Spain, but still takes place in many areas. The slaughtered pig is then often strung up and almost every part of the pig is used for eating purposes. In my street the neighbours remove the car from their garage and replace it with a pig. Two years ago the garage door remained open for all to see. Last year the garage party was held behind closed doors. Authorities are becoming stricter with those who practice the slaughter of pigs at home. But i doubt they will ever enforce a ban in some places.

For in Spain, the future of pork is assured. Coming next, a recipe or two originating from the humble pig.

A young bird turned up my doorstep recently. No, not that kind. The one pictured here. It has feathers, sung beautifully and gave the appearance of being a chicken. My mind turned to recipes, but first i had to identify the creature. You see, in Spain, birds are all around us. There are so many varieties and they often turn up on restaurant menus. But which ones to keep, and which ones to eat?

Shopping for birds in Spanish markets and supermarkets can be an eye opener. The head and the feet remain attached and the innards are there for you to do with what you wish. If you want to take the giblets out you are going to require a strong stomach and get your hands dirty. Supermarket chickens in Spain are, in my opinion, every bit as tasteless as those sold in their UK counterparts. But you can solve that yourself. Stick in a lemon up its rear end, fresh thyme and seasoning inside it and, faster than you can cluck, you have a tasty meal. I always eat it with nice Bomba rice.

Ducks are reared comercially in Spain for foie-gras. The Spanish that can afford it, love foie-gras. Duck ham is popular and ducks legs are cooked in their own fat to make confit. Ducks can be served with fresh figs or membrillo (quince). You’ll find perdiz (partridge) and cordornices (quails) on the supermarket shelves. As with so many meats in Spain, very little of the animal goes to waste. Be warned, you might require a strong stomach to witness some of the items packaged for sale at the poultry counter.

As for my bird, it turns out she is a he. A Barred Rock cockerel apparently. So no eggs coming my way. Therefore, it will be handed over to an experienced keeper of chickens later this week. He’ll be fattened up on corn and leftovers in time for Christmas or, perhaps, a later Spanish fiesta.

I shall have to make do with a free range chicken and a favourite recipe. Chicken with garlic and sherry. A recipe for which will form my next entry.

I don’t believe it! I sat outside a Spanish cafe today and watched in amazement as many customers ordered churros con chocolate. The temperature at the time was 40 celsius. Now i am a big fan of this ubiquitous Spanish snack. But i have it in winter to warm the extremities. And yet, summer after summer, i see the Spanish tucking into churros con chocolate while simultaneously fanning themselves. Why?

My Spanish friend Kati, no stranger to a sweet tooth herself, says: “Churros are great at any time of the year. They are just as tasty, and fattening, in the summer as in the depths of winter. They also restore sugar lost by the body in high temperatures. You should have some water on the side to drink alongside the hot chocolate. Don’t forget, it’s proven that churros con chocolate are the favourite cure for a hangover in Spain. That’s what most of Spain was eating the morning after Spain won the World Cup.”

So a serving of churros con chocolate has curing qualities. That’s a new one on me.

You can make your own churros. They are only pastry after all. A recipe to help you make your own churros con chocolate follows. It’s a recipe for four people – or two very greedy ones!

Ingredients for the churros:- 250 mils of water, 125 grams of butter, 200 grams of flour, 1 egg, i piece of lemon rind, 4 tablespoons of sugar, quarter of a teaspoon of ground cinnamon, oil for frying.

Ingredients for the chocolate:- 250 grams of dark chocolate (chopped), 300 mils of milk, 1 tablespoon of corn flour.

What to do for the churros:- Bring the water, lemon rind and butter to the boil. Remove the lemon rind and add the flour, stirring well over a low heat and until the mixture comes away from the sides clearly and forms a ball. Remove from the heat. Beat in the whole egg and continue beating until thick and smooth. Spoon the mixture into a piping bag and with a fluted  tube. Heat the oil and squeeze 4 inch strips of dough into hot oil. Fry 3 or 4 strips at a time until golden brown , turning once, for 2 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon and serve with hot chocolate.

How to make the hot chocolate:- Place the chopped chocolate and half the milk in a saucepan and heat gently, sitrring, until the chocolate has melted. Dissolve the cornstarch in the remaining milk and whisk into the chocolate. Cook over a gentle flame for around 5 minutes, whisking constantly, until the chocolate has thickened. Add extra cornstarch if it fails to thicken after 5 minutes. Pour into cups and get dipping your churros into the chocolate. Lovely!

Experiencing the joy of figs in Spain has to be one of the culinary highlights of the country. Whether it is simply picking one from a tree, using them to make jam or creating a classic dish such as figs in red wine, i urge all those for whom this fruit is a mystery to try figs. High in both calcium and fibre, figs have been used in cooking since before Roman times. They are good for you and your digestion. So is red wine! So here’s a recipe for a gorgeous dessert using both.

Fig with red wine and spices – serving 4-6 people

Ingredients:- A dozen large peeled figs (or two dozen smaller ones), 6 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 3 tablespoons of red wine, 2 large pieces of thinly pared orange rind, 1 sprig of fresh mint, 3 tablespoons of caster sugar.

What to do:- Pour 135 mils (or 4 and a half ounces) of water and the wine into a saucepan. Add the orange rind, sugar, cinnamon, cloves and mint. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the figs and cook over a low heat for 6 minutes. Lift out the figs with a spoon and put them into a serving bowl. Simmer the cooking liquid for 15 more minutes and then strain into a dish. Leave to cool. Cut the orange rind into very thin strips and add to the compote. Pour the sauce over the figs and chill in the fridge.

Serve as a delightful compote/dessert and marvel at how figs were just destined to be cooked in red wine.

Can Spanish restaurants actually deliver a memorable pudding? Something to please even the sweetest tooth? Not around my way they can’t. Andalucia has a woeful record when it comes to ‘afters.’ Too often restaurant owners see postres only as an opportunity to make profit on something that comes out of the freezer. I shall go to my grave reciting the list of ubiquitous sweets on offer as recited by a waiter. Helado? Natilla? Flan? etc etc. Call me fussy but i don’t want to end my meal with an ice cream or frozen solid pudding that has come out of a packet. Surely there is a market for home made, imaginative puddings in Spain.

As ever, chefs in the north of  Spain show more imagination than their southern counterparts. A fact acknowledged by one of the best chefs in Andalucia. Kevin Richardson of Mirador Cerro Gordo at La Herradura says:- “Andalucia is simply not cuisine orientated and that applies to postres every bit as much as main meals. Spanish customers automatically ask for flan, creme caramel etc. I have to gently tell them that we don’t serve such puddings but that we do offer dishes created on site and that, perhaps, they might like to try something new. Sadly, the answer is often ‘no’; but those who do try our puddings are every bit as happy as our north European customers.”

And he’s right. If you are serving the British in Spain you don’t have to be as predictable as offering something smothered in custard or strawberries with fake cream. Likewise Spanish chefs down south should be bolder and stop thrusting an ice cream on a diner wanting to complete a meal out with a stand out postre.

My plea to restaurants all over Spain is to step outside of their comfort zone. As Kevin Richardson told me: “Many restaurant owners are resting on their laurels. They say: ‘This is the way we have always done it, and this is the way we will always do it’; “that’s what i hear so often.”

Nobody has more of a sweet tooth than the Spanish. So those who cater should realise that were they to deliver attractive puddings, some people will visit their restaurant purely because of that fact. 

Create them and they will come. After all, the proof of the pudding is in just how many people want to eat it.

It’s hard to resist the humble potato in Spain. Spanish cooks and chefs have so many ways to tempt you. Patatas a lo pobre (poor man’s potatoes) has to be a personal favourite. The potato is also every bit as important to a tortilla española as the egg. If you find yourself in La Rioja, do try patatas a la Riojana. Read on for some recipes.

The Spanish conquistadors discovered the potato on their travels through South America in the 16th century. Today it’s impossible to imagine eating in Spain without, at some point, eating potatoes. I confess the potato tastes nicer in Spain. I’ve consumed more here than i ever did when living in the UK. The potato is a success story in Spain.

Never more so than with the classic serving of tortilla española. Do remember to cut your potatoes evenly so that they cook at the same speed. Go for the low starch variety of spud as they will not fall apart when frying. Here’s a simple recipe.

Ingredients:- 6 whole eggs, 4 large potatoes (peeled and finely sliced), 1 Spanish onion (finely chopped) 1 small green pepper (again finely chopped), 300 mils of olive oil, seasoning.

What to do:- Heat the olive oil in a heavy bottomed non stick frying pan. Fry the potatoes gently for about 10 minutes until they begin to soften. Add the chopped onion and green pepper and cook for a further four minutes. Using a large sieve, strain the potatoes. Mix the eggs in a clean bowl and add the potatoes. Season to taste. Then heat a spoonful of the olive oil in a frying pan and add the egg mixture. Stir with a wooden spoon and cook until golden brown on the bottom. Place a large saucepan lid over the mixture and carefully turn the tortilla over. Return to the frying pan and cook slowly until the tortilla is firm in the middle. Slide the tortilla on to a large plate. Leave the tortilla to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Rioja is one of my favourite parts of Spain. Not just for the local wine but also for the exquisite food served in towns such as Haro. A place you must find time to stop at and sample the local food and wine. Patatas a la Riojana combines the best of both worlds. Here’s a recipe.

Ingredients:- 2kg potatoes (peeled and diced), 150 mils of olive oil, 200g of diced chorizo, 150g of diced jamon serrano, 2 diced red peppers, 1 Spanish onion (finely chopped, 2 crush garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon of paprika, 2 litres of chicken stock.

What to do:- Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy bottom saucepan. Add the chopped onion, peppers and crushed garlic. Cook over gentle flame until the onion starts to soften. Add the diced ham, chorizo, paprika and diced potatoes. Cover with chicken stock and cook gently for 30 minutes until the potatoes are just cooked. Skim off the fat that rises to the surface during cooking. Season with salt and pepper, pour into a soup tureen and serve at the table. Do not forget the mandatory bottle of Rioja to accompany this tasty dish.

Sales of octopus at Spanish fish markets have rocketed in recent days. An octopus correctly predicted Spain would win the World Cup final against Holland. Paul, the so called pyschic octopus, has raised the profile of the creature. Spain is celebrating having the number one football team in the world by eating the very creature who forecast such success.  People are rediscovering the joys of eating pulpo. And there are so many ways to serve it. Here’s an idea or two.

My favourite serving has to be pulpo gallega, or pulpo feira as it is called in its place of origin, Galicia. There the octopus has a summer festival held in its honour. Any Spanish fisherman will tell you that an octopus has to be thrown against the rocks several times in order to tenderize it. They say it is ready to cook when the tentacles curl up. If there are no rocks handy, then give it a good hiding with an appropriate kitchen utensil. If you cannot bring yourself to bash a dead octopus, put it in the freezer for a couple of days. That will do the job.

If you would prefer a less spicy serving of octopus than pulpo gallega, check out our first recipe. This time for pulpo served with onions and potatoes. Both recipes follow.

Pulpo encebollada con patatas – serving 4 people

Ingredients:- 1 cleaned octopus (pulpo) of around 1 kg in weight, 4 tablespoons of olive oil, 2 thinly sliced large onions, 1 tablespoon of chopped fresh parsley, a dozen threads of saffron soaked in a little water, 500 grams of yellow fleshed potatoes, peeled and sliced, salt and pepper for seasoning.

What to do:- Rinse the octopus and slice it into small pieces. Heat the oil in a frying pan and fry the onions very gently until soft and golden – salt lightly to get the juices running – for about 10 minutes. Add the parsley and the saffron with its soaking water, and allow to bubble up. Add the octopus and cook gently in its own juices, loosely covered for an hour. You may need to add a little water. When the octopus is tender add the potatoes. Be sure there is enough liquid to cover and continue to cook for 15 more minutes or until the potatoes are perfectly tender. Season with salt and pepper. Serve in deep bowls, sauced with its own juices.

Now for those like your octopus to be spicy, here’s a recipe for pulpo feira/gallega.

Ingredients:- 2kg Octopus (pulpo), 2kg peeled potatoes, 2 table spoons of cayenne pepper or paprika, 2 table spoons of rock salt, 350 mils of virgin olive oil

What to do:- First wash the octopus in cold running water. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Place the octopus in the pan and sommer for 30 minutes. Remove the octopus and leave it to cool. Cook the peeled potatoes in the same liquid for about 20 minutes until they are tender. Cut the octopus into small slices. Then remove the ptoatoes and slice them. Place them in a large plate. Cover the potatoes with the slices of Octopus. Drizzle the Olive Oil on top. Sprinkle with paprika or cayenne pepper (whichever you prefer). Sprinkle rock salt and serve to your guests.

One of the most popular meals among Spaniards dining out is egg and chips. Yes, you heard me right. Good old egg and chips. I am still amazed when i see an entire family of Spanish diners order many plates of Huevos con Patatas from a not remotely surprised waiter. I have to report that I have been known to do likewise. In Spain you can get a very nice serving of egg and chips. And that’s not all.

Indeed there are many nice meals to be had in Spain where the humble egg dominates. One of the most common is eggs with peppers. Indeed very often you will be served egg, peppers and chips. Your plate runneth over! In this case the peppers will usually be of the green variety. I love this meal. It’s quick, easy and very energising at any time of the day. Those with hangovers swear by it.

You want some ham with that sir? Why not? Here’s a recipe for eggs with ham and red peppers. It serves between four and six people and for that reason you should cook in a cazuela – a shallow earthenware dish used for frying in Spain. In most Spanish kitchens chefs would use one person cazuelas for each serving of this dish. See the important notes re preparing a cazuela for use.

Ingredients

2 red peppers

4 slices of serrano ham

8 eggs

2-3 tablespoons of olive oil

Fresh black pepper

First roast the peppers over a direct heat or under a hot grill. Do so until the skin burns and blackens. Put them in a paper or plastic bag and wait 10 minutes for the skin to loosen. Then peel with your fingers. Deseed them and cut into strips. Pour a tablespoon of oil into each individual cazuela and place them carefully on to a direct heat. When the oil is smoking hot, lay in the peppers and a slice of ham. Then crack in the eggs. Two eggs per cazuela. Cook for 3-4 minutes so that the white of the egg is set. Give each dish a turn of the pepper mill and serve. The eggs will continue to cook in their dish.

*Before using a cazuela make sure it is tempered. To do this rub the surface inside and out with garlic. Fill the cazuela with water and place it over a direct heat. Bring to the boil and continue to boil until the water has evaporated. If the cazuela hasn’t cracked by now, it never will. Which is great news! Fear not if it cracks. Cazuelas are very cheap. They are glazed on the inside and unglazed on the outside.